In Conversation: Chef Vikas Milhoutra of Taj Coromandel, Chennai

Chef Vikas Milhoutra began his career in 1990 as a Chef Management Trainee at the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai. Since then, he has spent more than three decades with IHCL, leading kitchens from Jaipur and Goa to the Maldives, London and Dubai. A year ago, he moved to Chennai as Area Culinary Director, South, and Executive Chef at Taj Coromandel. In this interview, he talks about training under Hemant Oberoi and his fascination with Chennai’s many biryanis. He also shares the story of a Thanjavur wedding dish that comes with a playful test for the bride and groom.

From the Taj Mahal Palace to Chennai

Tell us a little about your journey as a chef, and what brought you to Chennai.

I am a graduate of the Institute of Hotel Management, Mumbai, and began my journey with Indian Hotels Company Limited (IHCL) in 1990 as a Chef Management Trainee at the iconic Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai. I spent over a decade there, training under the legendary Corporate Chef, Hemant Oberoi.

Over the next three decades, I went on to hold Executive Chef positions at several of IHCL’s landmark hotels, including Rambagh Palace, Jaipur; Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa, Goa; Taj Coral Reef Resort & Spa, Maldives; St. James’ Court, London; Taj Santacruz, Mumbai; and Taj Dubai. During this journey, I had the opportunity to lead hotel pre-openings and to launch and reposition award-winning restaurants. Along the way, I introduced distinctive dining concepts and led large culinary teams across diverse international markets. In 2019, I was also recognised among the Caterer Middle East Power 50.

I have now been in Chennai for a year, taking on the larger responsibility of Culinary Director, South. In this role, I oversee a portfolio of 43 hotels, with five more properties scheduled to open in the next six months. It has been an exciting opportunity to explore the region’s diverse culinary traditions while contributing to the larger culinary vision across the South.

Biryanis, podis and pachadis

Chennai has one of India’s richest food cultures. What has cooking here taught you, and which local dishes, ingredients or cooks have shaped you most?

I have thoroughly enjoyed being in Chennai and understanding its food and cultural influences, which have evolved over centuries. One of the things I find particularly fascinating is the sheer variety of biryanis associated with the city and its surrounding regions. The cooking techniques, choice of rice and cultural influences all come together to create distinct variations.

In addition, I am particularly fond of the variety of podis and pachadis in regional cuisine. They are incredibly versatile and can add character to a traditional meal. At the same time, they can be creatively incorporated into international dishes to give them an interesting local twist.

Southern Spice at Taj Coromandel

How do you bring Tamil Nadu’s own cooking, from Chettinad to the coast, onto a menu that guests also visit for classics from across India and the world?

At Taj Coromandel, we have Southern Spice, our highly successful and award-winning restaurant, which celebrates the culinary traditions of the five southern states. It has long been a favourite among both Chennai residents and visitors to the city.

In particular, the restaurant showcases traditional recipes and indigenous produce from across the region, offering guests an opportunity to experience the diversity of South Indian cuisine. One of its greatest strengths is the consistency it has maintained over the years. This is thanks in large part to our associates, some of whom have been with the restaurant for 25 to 30 years. Their experience and deep understanding of the cuisine play an important role in preserving its authenticity.

A rasam reimagined, and a wedding dish with a twist

Which dish on your menu are you proudest of, and what is the story behind it?

It is difficult to single out just one dish, as every preparation has its own character. However, I particularly enjoy the interpretation of a traditional rasam through our White Tomato Rasam. It is an interesting take on a familiar South Indian preparation, and it also demonstrates how a traditional dish can be reimagined while retaining its essence.

Another signature dish we have at Southern Spice is a Thanjavur speciality, Kair Katti Yerachi Kola Urundai: fennel-flavoured, crisp lamb dumplings wrapped with banana fibre, and a must-have for meat lovers. This dish has an interesting history. Kair Katti Yerachi Kola Urundai is often served at weddings to the bride and groom as an ice-breaker. The challenge is for them to unwind the banana fibre single-handedly. Whoever unwinds it first is said to have the upper hand in the marriage.

What to order on your first visit

A reader is visiting your restaurant for the first time. What should they order for a complete meal?

I would recommend one of our set meals, which offer a traditional thali experience with a choice of seafood, an all-meat selection or vegetarian preparations. These meals allow guests to experience the different courses and flavours of a traditional South Indian meal. As a result, they make an ideal introduction to the cuisine.

Festive season in the kitchen

Diwali and Christmas are close together this year. What does the festive season look like in your kitchen, and which festive dish do you look forward to most?

The festive season is always a particularly busy and exciting time in our kitchens. During Diwali, for example, our gift hampers and giveaways are extremely popular. Guests look forward to taking home a selection of traditional and contemporary mithai.

Christmas brings a different kind of excitement. For me, nothing quite compares to a beautifully roasted, juicy Butterball turkey with all its traditional trimmings. Then comes a classic Christmas pudding. These are timeless festive favourites that never go out of fashion.

One tip for home cooks

What is one simple tip home cooks can use for their own festive cooking this season?

Know your ingredients well before you start cooking, and trust your senses more than you trust a recipe! After all, understanding your ingredients and knowing how they respond to different cooking techniques can make all the difference.

“Know your ingredients well before you start cooking, and trust your senses more than you trust a recipe!”Chef Vikas Milhoutra, Taj Coromandel

About Chef Vikas Milhoutra

Chef Vikas Milhoutra is Area Culinary Director, South, and Executive Chef at Taj Coromandel, Chennai. He has more than 33 years of culinary experience across India, the UK, the Maldives and the UAE. A graduate of IHM Mumbai, he joined IHCL in 1990 and trained under Chef Hemant Oberoi at the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai. Over the years, he has led luxury hotel kitchens, launched award-winning restaurants and mentored culinary teams. Before moving to Chennai, he was Executive Chef at Taj Dubai. He was named in the Caterer Middle East Power 50 in 2019 and in Hotelier Middle East’s Chef Power List in 2024.

Also read: Diwali Brunch at Anise, Taj Coromandel, Chennai, In Conversation: Chef Shahul Hameed of The LaLiT Ashok, Bengaluru, and more chef interviews in our In Conversation series.

Images courtesy of Taj Coromandel, Chennai.